Stories from the Malabar coast – Thalaserry

Thalaserry fortAfter exploring the colonial remnants of Kannur, we were figuring out how to reach Thalaserry. We started from Kannur around 4:30 in the evening, hoping to catch a glimpse of the sunset from the Thalaserry Pier. We hired an auto rickshaw to take us to Thalaserry and drop us back at Kannur. A total of 50-55 kms and we paid 500 bucks. One thing that we like about Kerala is the pricing system followed by the auto drivers. They aren’t greedy and go by the meter.

Kannur to Thalaserry is a 40-50 mins ride and a slight drizzle made the sleepy little town even gloomier.We sought help of our guide aka google maps and some locals to reach the Thalaserry Fort. It is situated right in the middle of the town, overlooking the Arabian sea. This place was first captured by the French and later during the end of 17th century, the Brits took possession. There had been several attempts by Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan in capturing this fort town. This fort has also witnessed a lot of bloodshed while the British fought back the rebellious Pazhasi Raja.

Thalaserry Fort

This fort is maintained by the Archeological Department of India. As you enter, you will only be disappointed to see a series of buildings that functions as present-day government offices. Yet, there was neither a signboard nor a human who could provide some information. Walk up further and you only get to see an old lighthouse right in the middle of the fort, an abandoned English church very close to the fort and the vast stretch of the Arabian sea.

Thalaserry Church


There are  passages that looks more like tunnels and dungeons , but entry prohibited. Not spending more than 30 minutes, we clicked some pictures and walked further to reach the Thalaserry Pier.

thalaserry fort1

Thalaserry Pier or  the Kadal palam is at a walk-able distance from the fort. We walked through the narrow lanes of the fish market only with the hopes of a magical sunset.

Thalaserry fishing bay

The pier at sea bridge is an old structure extending for approx. 200-300  mts into the sea. We learnt that this pier was built during the British era and played a key role in sea trade. With lack of maintenance , the bridge is totally dirty. Used mostly by the fishing boats to transport goods in and out, the place has nothing special but just smells  of fish,a few couples whispering, teenagers posing for their groupfies and local vendors selling ice cream and cotton candy. We stayed there only to click some good pictures as the sky was beautiful painted in pastel pink and  we moved as quick as we can.

Thalaserry Pier

We passed through the fish market and the auto driver pointed out at the fishermen selling mussels,fresh from the sea. We learnt that Thaleserry is famous for the stuffed- mussel, a snack not to be missed. Not allured by the mussels snacks, we stopped at a  small chaya-kada( tea shop) only to savor a few ‘pazhampori’ and the Chai.

On the way back to Kannur, checking the pictures that we clicked we started pondering on what might have been the scenes around the huge walls of the Laterite fort during the heydays!

Knowing that we had a tiring day ahead, we bed crashed early to be on time at the Kannur railway station board our train to Bekal.

…To be continued



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